Sihanoukville would never win first prize in a pretty-town competition but thanks to a surrounding coastline of white-sand beaches and sun-drenched islands, this is Cambodia's most happening sun-sloth destination. Further away from the hustle, in the far south of town, is the relaxed Otres Beach, where cheap bungalow joints and bohemian-flavoured guesthouses are now neighbours with rather swish boutique resorts. The mellow scene here ticks all the boxes if you're looking for lazy days of sunbathing rather than night-time bar-hopping. Beyond Otres beach, the adventurous can find sandy strips rimmed by casuarina trees and coconut palms to have all to themselves. Sihanoukville is also the jumping-off point to Cambodia's southern islands, where castaway-cool beckons. The Sihanoukville Diaries showcases the best of this small beach-town that's evolving as one of South-East Asia's top destinations.